Pippa's Poppy Coat

As soon as I saw the mustard vegan wool fabric I knew I wanted to make a statement coat in it; something cosy but with a bit of character.

Enter the TFS Poppy coat. It was perfect for this coating fabric; the oversized collar is quirky and fun, the welt pockets add a lovely touch (and a technical challenge!), and the style lines work really well with a solid colour fabric and really let the lovely mustard colour stand out. At the outset, I sized down three sizes to reduce the design ease as I didn’t want it to be quite as oversized as intended and chose to make the shorter version.

I’d made one coat before but it was a much simpler style - Poppy is more of an intermediate coat - and it was earlier in my sewing journey, before I’d learned a lot of the things I have now, so this project involves a lot of new challenges for me. I sewed my first welt pockets, constructed my first collar, and sewed my first buttonhole by hand. I also took the approach of interfacing all of the woollen pieces to give the coat more structure, as the fabric is quite soft and drapey (rather than a firm, thick coating that holds its shape, as some heavy coatings do). This means it could also work really well for e.g. a skirt as well as outerwear.

Taking on these new technical challenges was made easier by the fact that the fabric behaves really well - it presses beautifully, which was particularly helpful in getting nice clean welt pockets, and it doesn’t fray too badly. It’s pretty malleable, which made getting nice clean curves on the collar a lot easier, and was generally helpful as the pattern requires a lot of turning the coat inside out and back out again for different steps. The fact it didn’t fray too much was especially helpful when it came to hand-sewing the buttonhole; I didn’t do a perfect job but I think it was pretty reasonable for a first attempt!

I made one deviation from the pattern instructions which was to sew the seam allowance of the top and under collar together; before I did this the collar was opening up when the coat was hung up, rather than sitting flat as it should do.

I chose a contrast lining and contrast button to really show off the lovely mustard colour of the fabric. I think this is going to be a firm favourite in my wardrobe - the colour goes with a surprising amount of things and the style is nice and cosy. And I want to show off those welt pockets as I’m pretty proud of them!

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You can find Pippa on Instagram @sewpippa.and also on her blog at www.sewpippa.com


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